26 (edited by tossEAC 2016-09-26 16:11:10)

No video as of yet, but here is a photo of a Dreamcast game, that was brand new, but wouldn't dump, so under extreme protest at the time I cleaned it by hand in the hope it would dump, but it didn't, I recently came across it totally forgotten about, and noticed the hand clean I gave it in the beginning was dreadfull, probably a very early clean, done by hand with brasso and cotton wool pad, so I re buffed it using the tricks of today, and it dumped, and heres a photo of the disc its self.... I can actually see a little mark on it, but its not to bad to look at to see how good you can get them, Dreamcast games come up like new.

http://i1199.photobucket.com/albums/aa480/tossEAC/IMG20160926150823_zpsafo73r8d.jpg

He who controls the SPICE... controls the UNIVERSE!
The SPICE must flow.

tossEAC, how you clean deep scratches? I tried Novus 2 + drill + 125 mm polishing circle, but it don't help clean them. Metal polish like brasso? Don't have it in my country, but I think to try something similar and liquid.

28 (edited by tossEAC 2016-09-27 13:50:58)

The neutral shoe polish is the main scratch remover, and novus 2 is a polish used for hiding the fact it has been buffed, the neutral shoe polish is about the best scratch remover.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CBUFS68/ … WS2CJEFW32

The other thing is, when a buffing pad is new and fluffy its great for getting the finish like new, but it is not so good at scratch removal, as a buffing pad (a new one) builds up deposits of polish it gets better at scratch removal, but less good at getting the final finish, so it is wise to have at least two buffing pads on the go, one for scratch removal and one for fine polishing.

When a buffing pad becomes useless (all the buff goes) and you have washed it several times and it has lost lots of the wool rendering it useless. don't throw it away, you can put it onto the rubber pads the bonnets go on, you put it on wool side facing the rubber, then put a new buffing pad over the old one, this gives you more padding and makes it all a lot better.

He who controls the SPICE... controls the UNIVERSE!
The SPICE must flow.

29 (edited by gaijin 2016-09-28 11:40:11)

Cleaning kills me. I can't get kiwi polish in my country and buy wrong with wax. I'll try to find neutral next time. I want compound which can clean deep scratches, polish plastic surface maybe manually and don't add more scratches. Drill + 125 mm polishing circle http://i.imgur.com/KPB1wIt.jpg
sometimes add more scrathes or heats and maybe damage surface. I use toothpaste.

You don't have to use kiwi shoe polish any will do, kiwi is just a brand name. Just make sure its clear shoe polish though.

He who controls the SPICE... controls the UNIVERSE!
The SPICE must flow.

tossEAC, is a drill really necessary or can it be done by hand?

32 (edited by tossEAC 2016-09-29 18:01:16)

It can be done my hand but takes 10x longer and is far less affective, and the disc will look sad when its done even if you are really good at doing it, compared to a drill + buffing pads + shoe polish.

Discs that barely contain any scratches and are just full of fingerprints can be done by hand using novus2, but you need soft finger tips or you will add loads more scratches, builder's, plaster's and brick layer's and the like should not try cleaning a disc with their fingers, would probably be like cleaning it against a brick wall.

He who controls the SPICE... controls the UNIVERSE!
The SPICE must flow.

Been on an absolute roll today, got 3 Dreamcast games working, all with one little tiny mark that seemed impossible to get out, after they had been polished the normal way, the normal way of using buffing pads, does not really get these odd very tiny deep marks sometimes found after a normal clean. What you need is one of these, Silverline 675223 Loose Leaf Buffing Wheel, 100 x 15 mm (their is an Amazon link on the first post).

The way they work, is the opposite way to normal buffing pads (flat 120mm bonnets), the part you buff with is round the edge of it, not the face side like buffing pads usually buff with. You can buff say one little mark much easier with one of these than normal, you still use shoe polish and need a drill, but once you have identified a particular mark on a disc, you can concentrate all the buffing effort on the one mark, instead of the whole disc. These buffing pads are also very good if you have a lot of scratches round the outside edge of the disc, working round the disc you can buff the outer edge very quickly with very good results, and it will get the scratches out very easy.

Today this is the buffing pad that got the 3 Dreamcast games to eventually work, once I was happy I had got each of the bad marks wiped out completely, I then polished it exactly as I would do normally, and got the surface as mint as I could then dumped it, and hey presto dumped fine no problems.

So if heavy scratches are the problem try these sort of puffing pads, then buff with the normal sort to make look pretty, the prettier it looks the better it dumps, it helps to have a magnifying glass so when you are on the final stage with the Novus2, you can see how the disc is coming along and when its finally as clean as you will ever get it. And that is pretty damn clean if you have sussed it out and have the right tools.

Anyway good luck with your cleaning, I am going to buy some "New Liquid Kiwi Neutral Polish" as soon as I can find something else to buy so I get free P&P, I will let you know if its any good or not.

Any one who wants to send me their discs, let me know, if cleaning is to much hassle for you, I would be glad just to add them to redump, as a dumper, don't mind sending them back if need be, as long as you can pay P&P.

He who controls the SPICE... controls the UNIVERSE!
The SPICE must flow.