Take a look at the ringcode on the back (ask the seller for a photo if necessary), the main part of the ID (the BPSS number on American PS3 discs) should match if it's already dumped. Sometimes the trailing digit differs (e.g. 1/2/3) along with the SID codes but this isn't part of the main ID.

Same applies for PAL region PlayStation games (and even non-PlayStation media made by Sony DADC like movies, UMDs, audio CDs, PC games/software etc.) - it's the large number with an A prefix (the -0101 or -A511 or -A911 doesn't matter, neither does the 17/28 etc. after it)

Depends on where the game was issued and if the text is actually changed IMO. Sonic Colors (US) vs. Sonic Colours (PAL region) is another example.

Technically it shouldn't be too hard to implement as long as there is a word list to tell the search engine to display all word variants. Type 'colors' and it should search for both 'colors' AND 'colours' unless someone puts it in double quotes e.g. "colors" to force it to only search for that particular string.

Speaking of barcodes...

If a PAL version game is not for retail release and contains "not for sale" or similar text in place of a barcode, a 7-digit number in the form of a product ID may still exist on the spine under the serial number, or on the disc itself (especially with demo/promo discs). This corresponds with the last seven digits of the barcode itself, even if the barcode itself wasn't printed. Not all games have these IDs however, and I have only seen these numbers used on PAL version games, not NTSC.

A barcode number may also exist (without the barcode itself) on the back of the manual, and in the case of PS1 games, on the front cover, however these sometimes remain unchanged from the retail releases thus may not match the 7-digit ID on the spine. In these cases, it is usually safe to add both barcodes.

To make the first half of the barcode, the first six digits need to be taken from the retail release, or the manual if one exists. An exception occurs with games using UPC barcodes rather than EAN/GTIN, such as the standard Sony 7 11719 xxxxx x barcode. With these games, only use the first five digits e.g. 71171 as the UPC format hides a leading zero from the barcode (when a UPC is scanned, the leading zero always shows up e.g. 0711719xxxxxx).

The back of the instruction manual will also contain a barcode number (without the barcode itself), however in most cases this number will be for the original retail version as the manuals are usually unchanged. The manual can help with finding the correct leading digits, or simply looking up a retail version of the game since 99% of the time they will have been issued by the same manufacturer thus contain the same half of the barcode.

Note: Don't always assume that the leading digit of the 7-digit number can only correspond to one manufacturer, they can overlap.

Examples:
Time Crisis (PS1, NOT TO BE SOLD SEPARATELY, 9608004) = 711719608004 = 7 11719 60800 4 (in this case, the front cover and manual also the barcode number in full, which matches the 9608004 on the spine)

Final Fantasy X (PS2, Australia, NOT TO BE SOLD SEPARATELY, 9365723) = 711719365723 = 7 11719 36572 3 (manual is for the retail release and doesn't match)

WWF SmackDown! Just Bring It (PS2, demo, 9036481) = 4005209036481 = 4 005209 036481 (note that THQ releases also use a 9 in the same place as Sony/first-party releases, but using a Sony 71171 here in place of THQ's 400520 would generate a completely wrong number, so make sure you know the right manufacturer!)

Spartan: Total Warrior (PS2, Australia, demo, 4766437) = 5060004766437 = 5 060004 766437

Tom Clancy's Splinter Cell (PS2, demo, 0410152) = 307210410152 = 3 307210 410152

The latest game I have found a non-matching 7-digit number is on an Australian Steelbook release of WWE SmackDown! vs. Raw 2006, which already had a retail barcode on the back, 4005209071178, but also had a different number on the spine (4005209068369) which was made of plastic. The 7-digit number did not match the Australian retail release either (which was 4005209071802).

But... does it only affect "silver" CDs or are discs with full labels just as susceptible? PS1 games (especially Platinum versions) are some of the worst for getting the slightest scratch on the top side and ruining a disc, even if the black side is mint.

IR light should show up with all digital imaging devices. Even a crappy old PS2 EyeToy can be used with a TV remote pointed towards the CD, I have done so before!

FIFA 99 needed the ringcode anyway, it's worth verifying. smile

7

(21 replies, posted in General discussion)

If you mean the PSX discs, it's just a regular old non-LED flashlight (white LEDs can't get through the disc layer, same with CFLs, due to the bluish light they put out).

Ring codes are more useful than the SLUS/SLES etc. numbers actually. Some games have the exact same PlayStation ID number between versions while the matrix is completely different due to being a different pressing. The SID codes and toolstamps are fairly unimportant however as these change during the manufacturing process.

@ F1ReB4LL: I am not sure if there is a public list of every single disc made by Sony. The Sony DADC part numbers are on most "PAL region" Sony-made discs regardless of what optical media it is e.g. games, data, audio, movie DVDs, UMDs, Blu-Ray, they are simply done sequentially on what happens to be the next disc to be stamped, with no preference to what format the disc is. Note that some European/Australian Sony discs were instead stamped with the "NTSC" style IDs instead, these are not part of the same list. DADC discs made before circa 1994 are also in a different numbering format and these don't count either. I do not know what the A00/A01 at the start signifies (older DVDs and PS1 launch titles like Tekken 1 don't have the A01 but most other PS1 games do) but it isn't part of the serial number.

All they need is a flashlight to be able to read them. Yes, getting photos or scans of them is slightly more difficult but in most cases just double checking the ringcodes is good enough, most people can be trusted that what they have typed will be identical to what's on the disc.

Oh look, a cheap and nasty 640x480 webcam from the 2000s. I can see Sony DADC, IFPI L555, A0100314437-0101   15 and an A1 toolstamp without having to make a huge setup using a massive scanner and a grow lamp. The only thing that didn't come out in the screen capture was the IFPI 944S stamped on the disc. Game is Brunswick Circuit Pro Bowling 2 (PAL). I cannot dump it because it requires a Plextor, which is impossible to get in Australia and ridiculously expensive to import (over A$100 including shipping), even for ancient drives from the 1990s. There is only one pressing of this disc which will only ever be #314437 in the DADC part number list. The toolstamps and moulded SID codes change between batches (depending on the machine which manufactured the disc) but the master will always be the same.

There are simply way too many PS1 games which have absolutely nothing except IFPI xxxx and a yellow marker http://redump.org/images/status/yellow.png next to it. It would be nice if we didn't have to keep buying already dumped games just to verify them and actually document what someone else couldn't be bothered doing. It really isn't that hard to shine a light on the back of a disc and read out the numbers.

11

(8 replies, posted in New Dumps)

Large bump, I suspect the 56/66/76 suffix in the mastering code may have something to do with the difference in the DVDs.

I dumped the '56' version  of the F1 '00 DVD a number of years ago by playing it in Media Player Classic, pausing it, then dumping it in IsoBuster like a regular PS2 game, but it also didn't match the version that was dumped (the CRC32 I had was f78aaf4c, which matches Barthax's 56 version). Either that or we're both doing this wrong, but I have matched DVDs on here using this method before, unless those ones were also incorrectly dumped.

http://forum.redump.org/post/50067/#p50067

12

(17 replies, posted in General discussion)

The new ones are on the first page, the ones from 2014 aren't unless they've been bumped. smile

13

(32 replies, posted in General discussion)

@ tossEAC - if only you were in Australia, I have about 50 scratched, undumpable and unsellable discs, if not more (and then I should probably count my DVD collection).

Three of the shops I used to get discs repaired can no longer do it - one place closed down (game store), the other place got rid of their machine (JB Hi-Fi) and the third place broke theirs and have never bothered repairing it (Cash Converters). And I am not paying $3-$5 per disc to have them fixed at a video or music store when in some cases the games themselves aren't even worth that.

14

(32 replies, posted in General discussion)

Another thing about Brasso, the one in the "toothpaste" tube is very abrasive even after removing the lumps, does not have the liquid layer, and will most likely destroy your discs rather than shine them up. Ironically, toothpaste itself seems to do a better job for lightly scratched discs (don't use the clear ones like Colgate/Macleans as it will only make everything sticky while leaving the marks on the disc).

Of course, if you have any worries about using these materials, always test it first on a crappy old CD/DVD you never use, or one which is already destroyed (e.g. a crack through the middle or disc rot/holes in data layer).

Dumps without any ring info whatsoever makes up about 90% of the PlayStation 1 list due to the dark CD backs (you need a flashlight to be able to read them).

16

(17 replies, posted in General discussion)

Sounds like Mega Man/Megaman/MegaMan once again. It's called Megaman already. "Mega Man" is the obese guy in the blue and yellow onesie on the US boxart. smile

17

(9 replies, posted in General discussion)

I found an LG 8163B today, in Savers of all places, and cost me all of $4.99!

18

(9 replies, posted in General discussion)

Jackal wrote:

You should be ashamed of yourself for not owning a single plextor drive! tongue My favorite non-plextor brand is probably Optiarc, so your choice of main dumping drive makes sense.

Actually, reading up on Plextor, I would be shocked if I did end up with one; they are virtually unheard of in Australia. They are seemingly very common in the US however, but at $30+ (AUD) for shipping, not in your lifetime, that pushes the drives well above $50 each despite them being about US $15, and the rest are your typical audiophool-grade overpriced crap ($130 for a CD-ROM drive, WTF??!!!)

Jackal wrote:

Another similar issue is barcodes.. Is there any real point in including spaces or > ?

I don't think there is. The barcode itself is simply a string of digits/data with no spaces between any of the digits. The spaces are only there to separate human-readable country/manufacturer codes (first half) from product codes (second half), and the > is just there as an end-of-text marker which is not present in the barcode data either.

It would be interesting to show the actual barcode itself in the description, similar to what UPC Database does. Edit: This identically-named UPC Database also has the same feature.

To me it's like like a game having a ™, © or ® symbol in the title. I'm sure you wouldn't want to edit the entire database to add those, or else we would end up with things like "TEKKEN", "TEKKEN 2™", "TEKKEN 3®", "Tekken Tag Tournament™", "Tekken™ 4" and "Tekken™5". Yes, that's how they look on the spine of the PAL versions. smile

20

(9 replies, posted in General discussion)

Oddly enough, my Diamond Data 648A-045 just randomly died. I was verifying the drive offset as the drive is not in the AccurateRip DB and it stopped dead in the middle of testing the second disc, never to work again - the LED doesn't even come on, nor does the tray open or close. Had to use the emergency hole to retrieve my Mortal Kombat Trilogy CD back!

21

(9 replies, posted in General discussion)

The only thing I've ever had with a dead laser was a PS2 Slim - even then it still worked fine with CDs since only the DVD laser had burned out. For about 2 years I exclusively played Tekken Tag on that console before giving in and buying a new laser assembly. smile

22

(9 replies, posted in General discussion)

Only found the NEC 1100A a few days ago, it was in a Dell Dimension 8250 someone left on the side of the road. I haven't even checked to see if the PC works (it was raining when I found it).

Edit: I couldn't do crap with this drive, sure you weren't joking about your 1300A? smile

Firstly, it failed to read any PlayStation 1 disc whatsoever (it didn't even show up in Windows Explorer), and secondly, it was an absolute POS when it came to reading audio CDs in EAC. In secure mode it took forever to detect gaps and dropped to <2X when reading the audio tracks, causing EAC to practically lock up while I hammered away at the cancel button. In burst mode, it works somewhat OK but I still don't trust it. This one's eBay fodder I think, at least it's a DVD burner...

It also failed to read two random CD-Rs. I threw in Tekken Tag Tournament and it found the disc immediately (of course, there are no audio tracks on that disc, as with the majority of PS2 CDs). When testing the DVD side of things, it took 6 minutes to dump Shaolin Monks at its own merry pace (at least it matched the database). I think only the Hitachi GD-2500 was slower, but being that the latter is from 1999 when a DVD-ROM drive cost almost as much as a whole PC, it's understandable.

23

(9 replies, posted in General discussion)

I was actually going to say something about not ever having a Plextor in over 40 drives! As for the Optiarc, it was pure luck that it was there as it just happened to be in the PC I started dumping games with. smile

The AOpen COM5232/AAH on my main PC has a habit of giving corrupt CD dumps and not matching the database so I rarely use it (it works fine with DVDs though). It also has a habit of not opening the tray, further reducing the odds of me wanting to use it.

I have a number of drives not in the list yet - most are still in old PCs and stored in boxes, unfortunately a few of them were water damaged when the garage leaked during a storm, leaving a box with an inch of water - surprisingly, all of the rusted drives are still working!

24

(9 replies, posted in General discussion)

A number of optical drives collected/hoarded(!) over the years:

DVD:
OPTIARC DVD RW AD-7240S 1.02 10/09 (+48) - Main dumping drive
AOPEN COM5232/AAH 1.09 05/04 (+738)
HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4521B 1.04 08/04 (+6)
HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GH22NP20 1.00 04/08 (+102) - SOLD Jan 23 2016
HITACHI DVD-ROM GD-2500 0101 03/99 (+564)
LITE-ON COMBO SOHC-5236K RK01 02/05 (+6) - SOLD Jan 29 2016
HL-DT-ST DVD-RAM GH40L 1.04 06/09 (+667)
_NEC DVD+RW ND-1100A 10FD 04/03 (+48)
TSSTcorp CD/DVDW SH-W162C TS09 09/05 (+6) - Bad spindle bearing, scrapped
SAMSUNG DVD-ROM SD-816B H002 10/03 (+12) - SOLD Nov 26 2015
LITE-ON DVDRW SHW-1635S YS0N 10/05 (+6)
HL-DT-ST DVDRRW GSA-H20L S742 06/06 (+102) *
LITE-ON DVDRW LH-18A1 GL0C 11/06 (+6)
LITE-ON COMBO SOHC-4836K SQK5 12/05 (+6) - SOLD Jan 25 2016
<null> 52X32XCOMBO 102G 08/05 (+738) AOpen 52X32XCOMBO, wasn't in AccurateRip's drive database until now; <null> is exactly that, no manufacturer name, not even a space - SOLD Jan 29 2016
HL-DT-ST DVDRAM GSA-H44N RB01 04/07 (+667)
LITE-ON DVDRW SHM-165P6S MS0P 08/06 (+6)
HL-DT-ST DVD-ROM GDR8163B 0L23 01/05 (+102)
DVSKOREA DVS-LDR DRL-200 CA46 10/05 (+102) - In Tevion DVD/HDD recorder (not a PC drive, but uses regular IDE/Molex cables - not in AccurateRip's offset database)
HL-DT-ST RW/DVD GCC-4481B E106 (12/04) (+6)

* My GSA-H20L is completely useless for ripping anything. It won't spin up beyond minimum speed when an audio CD is inserted making ripping in EAC take forever at 1.7X. Even with PlayStation games, it actually spins up, but then drops to 1X when reading gaps and ripping. Additionally, it didn't even return a consistent result on audio tracks, failing AccurateRip's database each time. Even in IsoBuster it rips audio CDs at about 4X without bothering to spin up at all.

Naturally, not one of the DVD drives in the entire list has been able to dump a GameCube or Wii disc, either returning the default "faulty drive" error in Rawdump, or hanging in Friidump after the message "Retrieving disc seeds, this might take a while..." (some drives will eventually return "Failed" and exit back to the command prompt).

Update: I now have an 8163B as of Nov 13 2015, which can seemingly rip GameCube games with no problems, but Rawdump being Rawdump still likes to fatalerror in the middle of dumping, go figure. First game to be dumped successfully using Friidump was Need For Speed Underground 2.

CD:
SONY CDU4811 PY09 05/00 (-1164)
CREATIVE CD821E tw960527 1.05 07/96 (+961)
SONY CD-RW CRX195E1 ZYS5 05/02 (+12)
SONY CD-RW CRX120E 1.0j 09/99 (+1160)
COMPAQ CRD-8400B 1.02 11/99 (-24)
IOMEGA CDRW55296INT-C 010X ??/?? (+6) - No manufacturer date
SONY CDU4811 PY09 02/00 (-1164)
E-IDE CD-ROM 40X/AKU T10 11/99 (+1268) - AOpen CD-940E/AKU PRO, no idea why they use a generic name
HL-DT-ST CD-ROM GCR-8480B 1.00 05/02 (-491)
SAMSUNG CD-ROM SC-148C B100 11/01 (+600) - Possibly faulty*
TEAC CD-W58E 1.0A 11/00 (+685)
CREATIVE CD420E 1.02 10/95 (±???) - EAC can't detect matching read command **
SONY CDU4811 PY05 11/99 (-1164)
HITACHI CDR-8330 0007 11/97 (±???) ***
TEAC CD-532E-A 1.0A 05/98 (+96)
ATAPI CD-ROM SPEED-8X 8.4D 02/97 (±???) - Acer 685A 043, EAC can't detect matching read command
BCD24XHM CD-ROM U1.3 04/98 (-1164) - BTC BCD 24XHM
ATAPI CD-ROM DRIVE N8EK 08/00 (+691) - Diamond Data 648A-045, can't verify more than one key disc out of 20+, now dead
HL-DT-ST CD-RW GCE-8562B 1.04 11/04 (+6) - Bought an 8164B on eBay for reading Nintendo discs, this was in the box instead when the parcel arrived (got a refund as the owner apparently couldn't find it)
LG CD-ROM CRD-8483B 1.08 05/02 (+12)
MATSHITA CW-7502 11/97 (SCSI) - Panasonic CW-7502-B; had a seized fan which has been since removed
MATSHITA CW-7502 12/99 (SCSI) - Panasonic CW-7502-B
GoldStar CD-ROM GCD-R580B 1.00 04/96 (±???) - Failed to verify a single key disc, tried 40 CDs

Drives with ??/?? listed have no manufacture date on the label, or are still inside a working PC which I haven't been able to open to check.

* Samsung SC-148C doesn't show up in EAC using the ASPI driver (I have to use native NT mode), drive randomly stops dead during testing/extraction of any disc, ending with EAC completely losing the disc and saying there's no audio CD in the drive, and almost all CD tracks tested don't match the AccurateRip database despite using the same CD when testing every other drive.

** Creative CD420E is an IDE drive, but it is not compatible with my USB adapter (it functions perfectly when hooked up to a regular IDE slot on the board however). Testing it in an old Pentium 200 with Windows 98 SE, EAC couldn't detect a matching read command (even after manually selecting every single one it failed to work), the drive was not in the AccurateRip database, and it failed to rip anything whatsoever, so I have no idea what the read offset is, or whether it can even read/rip audio CDs digitally to start with.

*** Upon detecting a read offset in EAC, it sits there for about 10 seconds doing nothing, then makes a fast back-and-forth click noise with the head and returns "This Key Disc cannot be used for offset detection (it does not match the one stored in AccurateRips[sic] database), please try a different Key Disc." despite being the exact same discs used to set up every other drive. Ripping with secure mode makes the drive spin down to <1X and produces nothing but read errors from sector 0 onward, regardless of which disc is used (including a brand new condition Death Magnetic). Tracks return different checksums when ripped multiple times using burst mode. No read offset + no rips = FAIL award. Also, it just blacklisted itself from AccurateRip/offset tests and won't even show up for offset testing now, LOL. Had to summon the powers of Regedit to fix the AccurateRip setting.

Others I haven't tested yet:
NEC CDR-272 07/95 (IDE, but not compatible with USB adapter)

25

(11 replies, posted in General discussion)

So that's why Melbourne Cup Challenge never returns a result when you search for it. I have seen that a few other games have the alternative title underneath the game name rather than in the comments however (as an example, type 007 into the search box to find a number of James Bond games with dual titles).